Tiles For A 20X20 Bedroom: How Many 24-Inch Ones Do You Need?

When tiling a room, it's important to consider the size of the room, the size of the tiles, and the pattern in which you want to lay them. Tiles come in various sizes, shapes, and materials, and the size of the gaps between them can vary too. To calculate how many tiles you need, you must first calculate the area of the room, then the area of the tile, and finally, estimate the quantity of tiles required, allowing for a waste factor of around 10-20%.

Grout size and tile overlap

For 24-inch tiles, the grout size will depend on the level of uniformity in the tile size. If the tiles are handmade or have variations in size, larger grout joints of 3/16" or 1/8" are recommended to account for irregularities and create a more even installation. Rectified tiles, which are precisely cut to ensure uniformity, can be installed with smaller grout lines of 1/16" to achieve a seamless look.

The location of the tile installation also plays a role in determining grout size. For floor installations, larger grout lines of 1/8" or wider are generally recommended for better traction, especially in areas that may be wet or slippery, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Additionally, tiling on angled surfaces like ramps or shower floors requires wider grout joints for increased traction.

In the case of 20" x 20" bedroom walls, tile overlap may be considered instead of grout lines. Wall tiles often have self-spacing features, creating an automatic space for grout. However, if a seamless look is desired, rectified tiles with minimal grout lines can be used.

It's important to note that the choice of grout size can impact the overall aesthetics of the room. While minimal grout space is trendy, it may not be the best option for handmade tiles. Wider grout joints can help to disguise variations in tile size and thickness, creating a more professional and uniform appearance.

Tile waste and extra costs

When tiling a 20x20 bedroom with 24-inch tiles, it is important to consider the potential for tile waste and the extra costs that may be incurred. Tile waste refers to the number of tiles that may be broken or damaged during the installation process, as well as the tiles that need to be cut to fit specific areas.

Firstly, let's calculate the number of tiles needed for the 20x20 bedroom. The square footage of the room is 400 square feet (20 feet x 20 feet). Given that 24-inch tiles are 2 feet by 2 feet, the number of tiles needed to cover the entire room is 400 square feet divided by 4 square feet, which equals 100 tiles.

Now, let's discuss tile waste and extra costs:

Tile Waste:

When planning a tile installation, it is crucial to account for tile waste to ensure you have enough tiles to complete the job. The amount of waste can vary depending on several factors, including tile size, layout, room configuration, and patterns. For a typical rectangular room with a simple layout, a 10% waste factor is commonly suggested. This means you would need to add 10% to the total number of tiles needed, bringing the total to 110 tiles for your 20x20 bedroom.

However, if your room has a more complex layout with jogs and corners, or if the tiles are being installed diagonally, it is recommended to increase the waste factor to 15%. In this case, you would need to add 15% to the total, resulting in a need for 115 tiles.

It is always a good idea to purchase extra tiles to account for potential mistakes, broken tiles, or future repairs. This is especially important if the tiles are end-of-line, clearance, or discontinued, as it may be difficult to find matching tiles in the future.

Extra Costs:

The extra costs associated with tiling a 20x20 bedroom can vary depending on several factors. Firstly, the cost of the tiles themselves will play a significant role. The price per square foot of tiles can vary widely depending on the material, design, and quality. For example, ceramic and porcelain tiles are generally the most cost-efficient option, while glass, quarry, and stone tiles can be more expensive.

Additionally, the complexity of the layout and installation can impact the overall cost. If your room has a lot of corners, jogs, or diagonal installations, the labour costs may be higher due to the increased time and skill required.

Another factor to consider is the cost of trim pieces. Trim pieces are necessary when a tiled surface ends on an open wall, meets a horizontal surface, or turns a corner. These pieces are typically sold by the piece, and the cost can vary depending on the type and length of the trim.

Finally, don't forget to include the cost of grout and other installation materials, as well as potential delivery or shipping charges for the tiles.

Tile shapes and patterns

When tiling a room, there are a variety of factors to consider, such as the tile size, layout, room configuration, and pattern. While square sizes are the most popular, accessible, and easiest to install, unique tile shapes also exist. Large tiles, such as 24-inch tiles, can make smaller rooms appear bigger and more open due to the reduced number of grout lines.

Linear Grid: This is the most common pattern, where tiles are arranged in a simple grid pattern with straight edges, resulting in a clean and classic look.

Brickwork (Stepped): This pattern is similar to the linear grid but with a slight offset, resembling brickwork. This creates a sense of movement and texture in the room.

Herringbone: Herringbone patterns involve aligning tiles in angled patterns, usually at 45 or 90 degrees, creating a dynamic and visually appealing layout.

Staggered Vertical Brickwork: This pattern is a variation of the brickwork pattern, where the tiles are staggered to create a more irregular and unique layout.

Running Bond: Running bond layouts, similar to those used with brick walls, involve offset rows or columns of tiles, typically with a 2:1 length-to-edge ratio. This pattern generally uses about 10% more tiles than a linear layout.

It's important to note that the amount of waste and the number of tiles needed will vary depending on the chosen pattern and the configuration of the room. A typical waste factor is about 10%, but for more complex patterns or room layouts, this can increase to 15% or more.

Tile materials and uses

There are many different types of tiles available, each with its own pros and cons, and not every tile works for every job. Here is a guide to some of the most common tile materials and their uses:

Ceramic tiles are one of the most common types of tiles found in homes. They are suitable for many applications, including kitchens, bathrooms, and entryways, as they resist water. Ceramic tiles are also durable and come in a variety of colours and styles. However, they may be uncomfortable to stand on for long periods due to their hardness.

Porcelain tiles are similar to ceramic tiles but are even more durable and moisture-resistant. They are also versatile, coming in a variety of designs, colours, and styles, and can be used outdoors as they will not freeze, fade, or crack. However, installation can be tricky and requires an adhesive.

Glass tiles offer a clean and minimalistic aesthetic. They are stain-resistant and are commonly used in kitchens and bathrooms as stylistic compliments to ceramic tiles. However, they chip and crack easily and are more expensive than other tile options.

Cement tiles are made with a mix of concrete and natural materials. They are durable, inexpensive, and environmentally friendly as they are air-cured. They offer versatility in patterns and colours, and can be sanded and resealed. However, they are prone to cracking in cold temperatures, are easily stained, and are difficult to cut and lay.

Marble tiles are a luxurious option commonly used in high-traffic areas due to their appearance. When properly maintained, they can last a lifetime, but they tend to be pricey. Marble requires a lot of upkeep and, like any stone, is susceptible to scratches and stains.

Mosaic tiles come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colours, styles, and materials. They work best on wall applications when an accent is needed but can look dated quickly, so they should be used sparingly.

Granite is a natural stone that has a similar look and feel to marble, but at a lower cost. It is best used in laundry rooms or other secondary spaces where performance and cost are the top priorities.

Limestone is another type of natural stone tile that delivers a natural, rustic style with neutral tones and shades. It is durable but soft, making it easy to shape and cut for specific patterns and placements. However, it is porous and must be sealed properly, otherwise, it will crack and etch easily.

Travertine tile offers a natural, one-of-a-kind aesthetic with soft, neutral tones. Like other natural stone tiles, it is easily impacted by water, stains, and traction, so it requires extra maintenance and occasional resealing. It is best used in low-traffic areas or on walls instead of floors.

Quarry tile is made with ground minerals in a process similar to brick-making. It is dense, non-porous, and water-resistant, with a very low water absorption rate. It can be glazed or left with a natural finish, and it does not need to be sealed. However, it is susceptible to staining, so it should not be used in kitchens.

Metal tiles offer superior durability and a modern aesthetic. They tend to scratch easily, developing a patina that softens the overall effect. Metal tiles work well on any work surface, such as a kitchen, bar, or utility room, but are not recommended for baths or outdoor use, depending on the climate.

Resin tiles are water-resistant and perfect for DIYers as you can make your own tile patterns. They are best for flooring in water areas, like bathrooms and mudrooms, and also work well as backsplashes and accent pieces. However, they can chip and yellow over time, especially when exposed to the sun.

Tile installation

Before you begin installing your tiles, there are a few things to consider and prepare. Firstly, calculate the number of tiles you will need for the room. For a 20x20 foot room, you will need to calculate the square footage of the room and then divide that by the square footage of one tile. Don't forget to add a waste factor of around 10% to account for any cuts or breakages.

Next, you need to select the right tile for the job. In this case, you are looking at 24-inch tiles, which are considered large format tiles. Large format tiles come with their own set of challenges, so it's important to be prepared. These tiles are typically installed with gaps between them, as they are often not uniform in shape and size. The gaps, known as grout lines, are usually filled with grout, which is a type of concrete. The size of the grout lines can vary depending on the tile size, material, and design needs.

Now, let's discuss the installation process for large format tiles like your 24-inch tiles. Here is a step-by-step guide:

Surface Preparation:

• Ensure that the substrate is clean, smooth, dry, and free of any wax, soap scum, or grease.
• Repair, patch, and level any damaged, loose, or uneven areas.
• Remove any moldings, trim, appliances, or other obstructions.
• Mark the center point of all four walls and snap chalk lines to find the center of the room.
• Lay out a row of loose tiles along the center lines, leaving spaces for uniform joints using tile spacers.
• Divide the room into smaller grids (approx. 2' x 3') by snapping additional lines parallel to the center lines.

Applying Adhesive:

• Select the appropriate adhesive for your substrate and carefully follow the instructions on the package.
• Spread a 1/4" coat of adhesive on one grid area at a time, using the flat side of the trowel.
• Use the notched side of the trowel to comb the adhesive into standing ridges by holding it at a 45-degree angle.
• Remove excess adhesive, leaving a uniform, ridged setting bed.
• Do not spread adhesive over a larger area than can be set in 15 minutes.

Cutting Tile:

• Carefully measure and mark the tiles that need to be cut.
• Use a tile cutter for straight or diagonal cuts, a nipper for curved cuts, and a rod saw for full-length curved cuts.
• Smooth sharp-cut edges with a carborundum stone if needed.

Setting Tile:

• Mix tiles from several cartons as you set them to create a blended effect and hide any variations in shade.
• Begin installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time, finishing each grid before moving on.
• Start with the first tile in the corner of the grid and work outward.
• Set tiles one at a time using a slight twisting motion, rather than sliding them into place.
• Insert tile spacers as you go, or leave equal joints between tiles.
• Fit perimeter tiles last, leaving a 1/4" gap between the tile and the wall.
• Tap all tiles with a rubber mallet or a hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and level plane.
• Remove excess adhesive from joints and tiles with a putty knife and a damp sponge, respectively.
• Do not walk on the tiles until they are set, which usually takes about 24 hours.

Grouting Joints:

• Wait about 24 hours before grouting, as per the adhesive package instructions.
• Carefully read and follow the instructions on the grout package.
• Remove tile spacers and spread grout on the tile surface, forcing it into the joints with a rubber grout float or squeegee.
• Tilt the float at a 45-degree angle to remove excess grout from the surface immediately.
• Wait 15-20 minutes for the grout to set, then use a damp sponge to clean grout residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints.
• Rinse the sponge frequently and change the water as needed.
• Let the grout dry until it forms a haze on the tile surface, then polish with a soft cloth.
• Rinse again with a sponge and clean water if necessary.
• Wait 72 hours before heavy use and avoid applying sealers or polishes for at least three weeks.

Some additional tips for installing large format tiles like your 24-inch tiles include:

• Use medium-bed mortar for better consistency and support.
• Back buttering the tiles will ensure proper coverage and a strong bond.
• Keep your work area clean and remove excess mortar around the tiles as you work.
• Use tile levelling systems and thicker mortar to help keep everything level.
• Use a notched trowel to apply adhesive and a flat margin trowel for scooping mortar and back buttering.
• Consider the tile pattern and orientation (vertical or horizontal) that you want to achieve.
• Order 10-20% extra tiles to account for waste and cuts.

Frequently asked questions