Staining Concrete Floors: A Bedroom Makeover Guide

Staining a concrete floor is a great way to add a unique and durable finish to a bedroom. There are two types of concrete stain: acid-based and water-based. Acid-based stains are long-lasting and resistant to fading, while water-based stains offer a wider variety of colours and are easier to apply. Before staining, the concrete surface must be cleaned and prepared by removing all furniture and debris, filling any cracks, and taping off any sections that should not be stained. When applying the stain, use a sprayer, roller, or brush, and work in sections to achieve even coverage. After staining, clean up any residue and apply a concrete sealant to protect the finish. Allow the stain and sealant to dry completely before walking on the floor or returning furniture to the room.

Choosing the right concrete stain

There are a few different types of concrete stain to choose from, each with its own pros and cons. The two main types are acid-based and water-based.

Acid-based concrete stain

Acid-based concrete stains are long-lasting and resistant to fading. They react chemically with the concrete to create a permanent bond, so they won't peel or chip. However, they are limited to earth-tone colours and can be unpredictable, as the final colour depends on factors such as the amount of stain used and the concrete's location, age, and mineral composition. Acid-based stains are also more challenging to apply and less predictable, as the staining happens through a chemical reaction.

Water-based concrete stain

Water-based concrete stains are available in a wider variety of colours and are generally easier to apply. They are also less toxic and dry more quickly. However, they are not as long-lasting as acid-based stains and may require more coats.

Other types of concrete stain

In addition to acid-based and water-based stains, there are also acetone-based dyes and solvent-based stains.

Acetone-based dyes come in powdered and liquid form. Powdered dyes are great for interior use and come in a wide range of colours, but they are not UV stable and therefore cannot be used outdoors. Liquid dyes, on the other hand, are UV-stable and come in an even wider range of colours. However, they cannot be polished.

Solvent-based stains are primarily used to tint solvent-based coatings. They can be used to create a solid colour that will last, especially for industrial or other high-traffic floors. However, they can be difficult to recoat and correct if the colour comes off.

Factors to consider when choosing a concrete stain

When choosing a concrete stain, it is important to consider the desired level of opacity, as this will affect the protection provided by the stain. Clear, transparent, and semi-transparent stains offer less protection but can showcase the grain of the concrete, while semi-solid and solid stains offer more protection and can hide wear and tear.

It is also important to test the stain on a small piece of concrete or in an inconspicuous area to ensure that the colour and coverage are as desired. The concrete surface should be properly prepared before staining, and the correct tools and techniques should be used for application to ensure even coverage.

Preparing the concrete surface

Clear the Room

Remove all furniture, rugs, and accessories from the room. Take down any artwork or mirrors from the walls. It is also a good idea to remove the baseboards to prevent them from getting stained.

Sand the Concrete

Use a sander to polish away any rough spots on the concrete surface. Ensure that the overall surface is even. If the concrete is new, you can skip this step.

Clean the Surface

Use a shop vacuum to remove any debris from sanding. Then, use a concrete cleaner to remove stains such as oil, grease, or mastic. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for cleaning and let the floor dry for 24 hours.

Repair the Cracks

Apply concrete sealant to any cracks or pitting on the concrete surface. Smooth it out with a putty knife and let it dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Cover the Walls

Use plastic sheeting and painter's tape to cover the area from the bottom to about two feet up the wall. This will create a barrier and protect the walls from stains.

Test the Stain

Before applying the stain, test it in an inconspicuous area to determine how many coats are needed to achieve the desired effect.

Apply the Stain

Pour the stain into a handheld airless sprayer. Make sure the sprayer is primarily plastic as acid will corrode metal parts. Spray the stain evenly across the floor. Have someone follow behind with a broom to work the stain into the floor for a consistent finish.

Alternatively, you can use a paint roller or brush, especially for smaller areas or tight corners that a sprayer can't reach. Always maintain a "`wet edge'" by overlapping each new section with the previous one that hasn't dried yet.

Clean Up and Neutralize

If you used an acid-based stain, you must remove any acid residue before sealing. Use a pump sprayer to create a neutralizing solution by mixing 4 parts water to 1 part ammonia. Spray the floor and let it dry. Then, mop the floor with clean water and use a shop vacuum to remove excess water. Let the floor dry overnight before sealing.

Applying the stain

Now that you've chosen your concrete stain and prepared the surface, it's time to apply the stain. Here are some general instructions on how to do this, followed by specific instructions for applying acid-based and water-based stains.

First, mask off any areas you want to protect, such as door frames and walls. Then, dilute the stain with water according to the manufacturer's instructions. Next, apply the first coat of stain using a sprayer, roller, or brush. If you're using a sprayer, use broad, even passes and maintain a wet edge with a slightly overlapping spray pattern, being careful not to apply too much stain so that it doesn't puddle on the floor. If you're using a roller or brush, use even strokes and go over any brushstrokes with a second coat. Allow the first coat to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions, which is usually around 24 hours. If you want a darker colour or more colour intensity, apply a second coat.

Applying Acid-Based Stain

When applying an acid-based stain, make sure you're wearing protective gear, including a respirator, protective eyewear, clothing, and footwear, as well as chemical-resistant gloves. Mix the stain outdoors and ensure there is plenty of ventilation in the room. Pour the stain into a handheld airless sprayer, and spray it evenly across the floor. Have someone follow behind you with a broom to work the stain into the floor for a more consistent finish. Allow the first coat to dry, and apply a second coat to cover any brushstrokes.

After staining, you'll need to clean up any acid residue. Create a neutralizer by adding 4 parts water to 1 part ammonia and spray the floor. Let it dry, then mop the floor with clean water and use a shop vacuum to clean up excess water. Let the floor dry overnight before sealing.

Applying Water-Based Stain

When applying a water-based stain, pour the stain into a handheld airless sprayer and spray it evenly across the floor in a circular motion, making sure the stain doesn't puddle. If it does, wipe it up with a clean cloth before it dries. Let the first coat dry, and apply additional coats as needed. Wait at least 24 hours before sealing.

Cleaning and neutralising the stain

Once you've prepared the concrete surface by ensuring it's free of residual adhesive, flaking paint, and debris, you can move on to cleaning and neutralising the stain.

Cleaning the Stain

Concrete is porous and can hold dirt, so it's important to remove any loose dirt and debris before applying the stain. Use a broom, dust mop, or wet/dry vacuum to sweep or vacuum loose dirt off the concrete. If there is stubborn dirt or discoloration, you can use a pressure washer to clean the surface.

Neutralising the Stain

After the concrete has dried, a residue will usually form. This residue must be neutralised and rinsed off with clean water. You can use mops, water hoses, wet/dry vacs, and/or extremely soft-bristled brooms to neutralise the stain and remove the residue.

To neutralise the stain, use water and either baking soda, trisodium phosphate (TSP), or ammonia. The recommended amount is 12 to 16 ounces of ammonia per mop bucket or 6 to 8 ounces of ammonia to 1 gallon sprayer of water. Gently scrub the neutraliser into the concrete using a soft nylon-bristled brush. Let it sit for about 20 minutes to ensure proper neutralisation.

After neutralising, reapply the neutraliser as it also serves as a cleaner. Gently scrub it into the concrete with a soft nylon-bristled brush. Continue scrubbing and rinsing with clean water until the rinse water is clear. Use a shop vac to remove excess water.

To check if the surface is adequately cleaned, swipe your fingers across the rinsed and cleaned surface. If there is no colour or residue on your fingers, the surface is ready to dry completely before applying the sealer.

Sealing the concrete

Sealing your concrete floor is the final step in staining your bedroom floor. Concrete sealers protect the finish of your stained concrete and enhance the depth of colour. There are a few different types of concrete sealers, so it's important to choose the right one for your needs.

Acrylic Sealers

Acrylic sealers are UV stable, affordable, and easy to apply. They offer a wet look that enriches the appearance of stained finishes. However, they have the softest surface of all sealer types and require the most maintenance. One coat of a solvent-based acrylic sealer followed by a topcoat of a water-based acrylic will provide ample protection for interior stain applications.

Epoxy Sealers

If your stained floor is high traffic, such as a restaurant or other public space, an epoxy sealer may be a good option. Epoxies are harder than acrylics but don't allow trapped moisture to escape, which may become a problem later. When sealing with an epoxy, thorough moisture testing is a must.

Urethane Sealers

Urethane sealers are the most expensive but also the most abrasion-resistant. To get a proper bond, urethanes must be applied over a water-based epoxy. They are not UV stable.

Sealing Stained Concrete Patios

Acrylic sealers are best for outdoor stain applications because they allow moisture in the slab to escape. Many contractors prefer solvent-based acrylics over water-based acrylics because they tend to perform better outside. If a shiny or wet look is not desired, silicone-based penetrating sealers are recommended for a matte finish.

To seal your concrete floor, allow the stain to cure for 24 hours, then spread the sealer along the floor as directed on the label. Drying time can vary depending on environmental conditions, so plan on two days for it to completely harden.

Maintenance

While sealing will protect your stained concrete, it does not eliminate the need for periodic maintenance. For interior concrete floors, maintenance is usually a simple matter of dry dust mopping and occasional wet mopping with a neutral-pH cleaner. If stained floors begin to lose their shine, rewaxing will usually revive the appearance. For patios and other exterior stained concrete, keep the surface clean by sweeping with a broom or leaf blower or rinsing with a garden hose. To remove stubborn dirt, scrub with a mop or medium-bristle brush and a mild cleaner. To keep exterior surfaces protected, apply a new coat of sealer every year or two, or as necessary. When you begin to notice that water no longer beads up on the surface, it's time to reseal.

Frequently asked questions