Drywall Installation: Laundry Room Edition

Installing drywall in your laundry room can be a challenging task, but with the right tools and some patience, it is definitely achievable. Drywall installation involves several steps, from measuring and cutting the drywall sheets to size, to hanging them on the ceiling and walls, and finally, mudding and taping the seams. While it may seem daunting at first, many people have successfully tackled this project and transformed their laundry rooms into functional and attractive spaces.

Using a drywall lift to save your back

Using a drywall lift is a great way to save your back when installing drywall in your laundry room. Drywall can be heavy and awkward to handle, but a drywall lift can make the job much easier and reduce the risk of injury.

A drywall lift is especially useful when installing drywall on ceilings, as it can be difficult to hold the drywall in place while screwing it into the ceiling joists. With a drywall lift, you can place the drywall on the lift, crank it up to the ceiling, and then screw it into place without having to worry about your arms getting tired.

Renting a drywall lift is a cost-effective option, as it will save you time and strain on your back. Drywall lifts are also stable and manoeuvrable, allowing you to fine-tune the placement of the drywall once it is in position.

When using a drywall lift, it is important to load the drywall properly. Flip down the support hooks and place the finish side of the drywall against the lift. Lift the drywall slowly and smoothly to avoid jerking, which can cause the drywall to pop off the hooks.

Once the drywall is in position, you can use a drill or a drywall screw gun to screw it into place. It is recommended to use coarse-thread drywall screws and a drywall setting drill bit to countersink the screw heads into the drywall.

In addition to ceilings, a drywall lift can also be used for installing drywall on walls. Simply pivot the lift to position the drywall against the wall. The lift can accommodate sheets of drywall up to 8 feet in length, making it a versatile tool for your laundry room project.

By following these tips and techniques, you can save your back and efficiently install drywall in your laundry room using a drywall lift.

Cutting the drywall sheets to size

Firstly, you'll need the right tools for the job. A utility knife, a straight edge such as a metal yardstick, a chalk line, and a drywall saw are essential. Having a drywall lift will also make the process much easier, especially if you're working alone.

Before making any cuts, it's important to take accurate measurements of the area where the drywall will be installed. Mark the cut line on the drywall sheet using your chalk line. This will ensure a straight and precise cut.

Now, here's a step-by-step process for cutting the drywall:

• Score the top layer of paper on the drywall sheet using your utility knife and the straight edge. Carefully follow the marked cut line.
• Once you've cut through the top layer, you can run your utility knife along the ridge again without the straight edge.
• Snap the piece along the cut line. This should create a clean break along the line.
• Finally, cut through the back layer of paper.

If you're working around obstacles like light switches or vents, you can use a variety of tricks for precise hole placement. For example, you can use a hole saw drill bit or a drywall/keyhole/jab saw for cutting holes for vents and outlet boxes.

Remember to always prioritize safety when using cutting tools. Wear protective gear, such as gloves and eye protection, and work in a clear, well-lit area to avoid accidents.

With careful measurements and a steady hand, you'll be able to cut the drywall sheets to size accurately and efficiently, setting the foundation for a smooth drywall installation in your laundry room.

Cutting around doorways

When installing drywall in your laundry room, you will need to cut around any doorways. This can be done by first installing a full sheet of drywall horizontally at the top of the wall, completely covering the top of the doorway opening. You can attach the panel by inserting a drywall screw through the drywall and into a stud every 8 inches on seams and every 12 inches in the centre of the panel.

Insert additional screws, one every 8 inches, into the studs that frame the rough opening of the doorway. These screws should be as close to the centre of the studs as possible. Then, duck under the drywall panel to the other side of the wall. From this vantage point, you can clearly see both the framed doorway and the backside of the drywall panel.

Use a sharp utility knife to cut about halfway through the drywall panel on all three sides framed by the doorway. Tap two nails through the backside of the drywall panel – one at each top corner where the lines you just cut meet. The nail size doesn’t matter, but they should be long enough to protrude on the other side of the drywall.

Step back through to the other side and locate the two nails. Hook the end of a chalk line at the bottom of the drywall panel directly below one of the nails and run the chalk line straight up, winding it around the nail, running it over to the other nail and then to the bottom of the drywall. Snap all three sides of the chalk line to transfer cutting guides to the face of the drywall.

Now, cut the front side of the drywall panel with the utility knife, using the chalk lines as guides. The panel should be nearly cut through at this point, and you can tap it lightly with your hand to dislodge the interior section. Smooth the cut edges of the drywall panel with a hand-held drywall rasp.

For the lower drywall panel, stagger the panel so that one side extends into the doorway opening. This means that the seams on the lower panel will not line up on the same studs as the seams of the upper panel. Install one lower side panel at a time, attaching it in the same way as the upper panel.

Step to the backside of the doorway and use a utility knife to cut the panel, using the doorframe as a guide. Cut at least halfway through the panel. Grab the edge of the panel and snap it forcefully toward the face of the panel. The drywall will crack along the cut seam, but the face paper will still hold the two sections together. Hold the snapped drywall section at a 90-degree angle to the face of the panel, and run a utility knife down the crease to separate the two pieces.

Install and cut the lower drywall panel on the other side of the door using the same method. A standard doorjamb accommodates 2-by-4-inch wall framing with the addition of ½-inch drywall panels. If you install thicker drywall, you will need to install door extensions to the jamb.

Avoid ending the upper drywall panel anywhere in the centre of the door or along the edge of the doorway opening frame. Any type of settling will cause drywall joints in this area to crack first. Installing a full panel over the top of the doorway reduces the risk of cracks in these spots.

Mudding and taping your drywall seams

Step 1: Prepare the Mud

Before you begin mudding, ensure that your mud is well-mixed and has a smooth consistency. This will make it easier to apply and help you achieve a smoother finish.

Step 2: Apply a Thin Layer of Mud to the Seams

Using a large taping knife, spread a thin layer of mud along the seams of the drywall. This will create a base for the tape to adhere to. Make sure the layer is even and free of any lumps or bumps.

Step 3: Apply the Tape

The next step is to apply the tape over the mudded seams. You can use paper tape or mesh tape, depending on your preference. Gently press the tape onto the mud, ensuring that it is smooth and taut. Use your taping knife to remove any air bubbles or wrinkles.

Step 4: Apply a Second Layer of Mud

Once the tape is in place, apply a second layer of mud over the tape, using your taping knife to feather out the mud and create a smooth transition between the tape and the drywall. This layer should be thin and even.

Step 5: Let the Mud Dry

Allow the mud to dry completely before proceeding to the next step. The drying time may vary depending on the product you are using, so refer to the manufacturer's instructions.

Step 6: Sand the Seams (Optional)

If needed, use a sanding block or sandpaper to lightly sand the seams once the mud is dry. This will help create an even smoother finish and remove any excess mud.

Step 7: Apply Additional Coats of Mud (If Necessary)

Depending on the thickness of your tape and your desired finish, you may need to apply additional coats of mud. If so, repeat the process of applying a thin layer of mud, feathering it out with your knife, and allowing it to dry.

Remember that thin coats are better than thick coats, as they will help you build up the mud gradually and achieve a smoother finish. Be patient and take your time with each layer, as this will make the sanding process easier and help you achieve a professional-looking result.

Using water-resistant drywall

Green board is made with additives that help protect it against moisture, which can cause regular sheetrock to deteriorate over time. It also has a speckled, paintable surface, allowing for a longer-lasting finish. When installing green board, ensure that all components are properly sealed and installed correctly to prevent water from seeping through seams and corners.

To install water-resistant drywall, start by measuring and cutting the drywall sheets to fit your laundry room walls. Score and snap the boards, then add drywall screws to secure them in place. You will also need to install wall and ceiling boards, typically sheets of plywood, to provide a base for attaching the drywall.

Once the drywall is installed, you will need to tape and mud the seams and corner beads. Use a compound or drywall mud to fill in any gaps or imperfections. After the compound has dried, sand the walls to create a smooth surface ready for painting.

Finally, caulk and seal the walls to protect against moisture and mildew and to prevent drafts. You can then paint the walls using a bathroom-safe paint to further enhance the moisture resistance of your laundry room.

Frequently asked questions