The Ultimate Guide To Maintaining Your House Pool

Maintaining a house pool can be a lot of work, but it's worth it to be able to enjoy a refreshing swim on a hot day. The process can be sped up with a few simple tricks. First, skim the surface of the pool for debris and empty the skimmer basket. If there are trees or bushes nearby, consider trimming them back to prevent pollen, blossoms, and leaves from falling into the pool. Direct the nozzles of the return jets downward to keep the water clear. After that, it's time to vacuum the pool, which usually takes around 30 minutes. Finally, complete the cleaning by brushing any algae off the sides with a nylon or stainless steel brush. In addition to this weekly cleaning routine, it's important to regularly test and adjust the pool's chemistry, including pH and chlorine levels, and to clean the pump filter.

Skim and vacuum the pool

Skimming and vacuuming the pool is a crucial step in maintaining a house pool. Skimming the pool involves removing floating debris from the surface of the pool and emptying the skimmer basket. This process only takes a few minutes and ensures that the pool is free of leaves, insects, pollen, and other debris. It is also important to dispose of the waste away from the pool area to prevent it from blowing back into the water.

Vacuuming the pool is the next step and is essential to remove dirt and debris from the pool floor and walls. Before vacuuming, it is important to prepare the pool by removing any visible leaves, dirt, or excess waste using a pool skimmer or leaf rake. The skimmer basket should also be cleaned out. Additionally, ensure that the pool pump is turned on to allow water to flow through the pool filter.

When choosing a pool vacuum, there are two main types: manual and automatic. Manual pool vacuums require manually pushing the vacuum over the surfaces of the pool and can provide deeper cleaning. On the other hand, automatic pool vacuums are hands-free and crawl along the floor of the pool to clean and circulate water.

To vacuum the pool, start by assembling the vacuum and hose. Submerge the vacuum hose in the pool to fill it with water and remove any air bubbles. Attach the vacuum head to the hose and ensure that the vacuum is submerged and resting on the bottom of the pool. Place the free end of the vacuum hose in front of the water return outlet to fill it with water. Once the bubbles stop, submerge the vacuum head and clamp the hose until it is connected at the skimmer.

The average pool requires about 30 minutes of vacuuming. Move slowly across the water in overlapping parallel lines, similar to mowing a lawn. If the pool is too wide, vacuum half at a time. Keep an eye on the vacuum hose during the process, as a floating hose may indicate a hole in the line or diminished suction due to a full filter.

Adjust pool chemicals

Maintaining the correct balance of chemicals in your pool is essential to keeping the water clean and safe for swimming. Here is a detailed guide on how to adjust the chemicals in your pool:

Test and Adjust Total Alkalinity:

Firstly, test the total alkalinity of your pool water, which represents the number of alkaline substances present. A healthy level of alkaline acts as a pH stabilizer, reducing pH fluctuations. The ideal total alkalinity range is 80-120 ppm. To increase total alkalinity, use sodium bicarbonate or baking soda. You can use up to 25 pounds of sodium bicarbonate per 10,000 gallons of pool water. To decrease total alkalinity, use sodium bisulfate (dry acid).

Test and Adjust pH:

The pH level measures the acidity or basicity of a substance on a scale of 1.0 to 14.0, with 7.0 being neutral. The ideal pH level for a pool is between 7.4 and 7.6. To raise the pH, add a pH increaser like sodium carbonate (soda ash). Alternatively, use muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate to lower the pH. If your pH level is fluctuating, it may be due to low alkalinity, so consider adding baking soda to stabilise the pH.

Measure and Adjust Calcium Hardness:

Calcium buildup can cause white lines or scaling around your pool's water line. The ideal calcium hardness level is 200-400 ppm. To increase calcium hardness, use calcium chloride according to the package instructions. To decrease calcium hardness, partially drain the pool and refill it with fresh water, or use a flocculant to collect and vacuum excess calcium.

Add Sanitizer (Chlorine):

Sanitizers like chlorine keep your pool free of germs and bacteria. The ideal chlorine level in your pool is 3 parts per million (ppm). Chlorine comes in granular or tablet form. Granules are poured directly into the pool, but this method may result in uneven distribution. Tablets can be added to a floating dispenser, the skimmer basket, or an automatic chlorinator for better dispersion. If using an outdoor pool, opt for stabilized chlorine, which has cyanuric acid to protect the chlorine from the sun's UV rays. If using unstabilized chlorine, add cyanuric acid separately to protect the chlorine.

Check and Adjust Cyanuric Acid:

Cyanuric acid acts as a sunblock for chlorine, protecting it from the sun's UV rays. It is often found in small amounts in pool shock treatments. The ideal level for cyanuric acid is between 30 and 50 ppm.

Measure Total Dissolved Solids:

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) measures the amount of substances dissolved in your pool water, including chemicals, salts, algaecides, and dirt. While it is normal to have a few hundred TDS, if the level exceeds 2,000 ppm, you will need to drain and replace the water.

Shock Your Pool:

Finally, shock your pool by adding a high dose of chlorine all at once. This helps to keep the water clean and sanitised, and can also be used to treat algae and other contaminants. Use calcium hypochlorite shock at least once a week, adding it to a bucket of warm water before gradually pouring it into the pool.

Clean the pump filter

To clean the pump filter of your house pool, follow these steps:

Firstly, shut the system off and close the skimmer valve in front of the pump to prevent the need for repriming when the system is turned on again. Next, turn off the pool pump. If you have a timer, remove anything that will trip the timer and cause the pump to turn back on. For safety, remove air from the system by turning the air relief valve—usually located on top of the filter—to release any excess air.

Now you can begin to disassemble the filter. Remove the clamps or other latching mechanisms holding the filter together. If you're unsure how to do this, consult the owner's manual. Remove the top of the filter and carefully take out the cartridge, setting it aside. Inspect the cartridge for any damage or wear. If you notice any cracks or tears, or if it is beyond the point where cleaning will be effective, you will need to replace the cartridge.

If the cartridge is intact, it's time to clean it. Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to rinse the cartridge, making sure to get in between the pleats. If you want, you can buy a spray nozzle designed specifically for cleaning pool cartridge filters. If the cartridge is dirty, use a filter cartridge cleaner, following the manufacturer's instructions. If the cartridge is very dirty, you may need to soak it in a filter cleaning solution overnight. You can use a 5-gallon bucket, ensuring the cartridge is completely covered with water and cleaning solution. Alternatively, dilute one part muriatic acid with 20 parts water in a 5-gallon bucket and soak the cartridge overnight.

After cleaning the cartridge, rinse it thoroughly with water before putting it back in the tank. Return the cartridge to the filter and secure it in place. Replace the filter top and close the clamps. Check the O-ring on the filter tank. If it is in good condition, apply some lubricant to keep it that way. If it is damaged or worn, replace it.

Finally, turn the system back on and open the air relief valve to release any excess air. Keep the valve open until a steady stream of water sprays from it, then close it. Check the pressure gauge to ensure it is in the normal filter pressure range. If the pounds per square inch (PSI) is off, something may be wrong with the system.

Add chlorine

Maintaining the correct chlorine levels in your pool is essential to keeping the water clean and safe for swimming. Chlorine purifies the water, killing harmful bacteria and preventing algae growth. Here are some detailed steps to help you add chlorine to your pool effectively:

Step 1: Test the Chlorine Levels

Before adding any chlorine, it's important to test the current chlorine levels in your pool. You can use test strips or a testing kit to check the chlorine concentration, which is measured in parts per million (ppm). Aim to maintain the free available chlorine level between 1.0 and 3.0 ppm. If the levels are below 1 ppm, your pool may harbour harmful bacteria, while levels above 3 ppm can cause skin and eye irritation.

Step 2: Calculate the Amount of Chlorine Needed

The amount of chlorine you need to add will depend on the current chlorine levels and the volume of water in your pool. Read the instructions on the chlorine packaging to determine the appropriate quantity. You may need to add more chlorine during hot weather, when the pool heater is on, or if your pool is in frequent use.

Step 3: Choose the Right Chlorine Type

Chlorine is available in different forms, such as tablets, sticks, or granular chlorine. Tablets and sticks are often preferred as they are slower-dissolving and require less maintenance. Look for chlorine tablets or sticks with a concentration of around 90% Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione (also known as "Trichlor"). If you opt for granular chlorine, look for a concentration of 56-62% Sodium Dichloro-S-Triazinetrione ("Dichlor").

Step 4: Add Chlorine to the Pool

If you have a chlorinator (a tubelike tank next to the filter), you can add chlorine sticks to it. Alternatively, you can use a floating chlorine feeder or skimmer basket. Place the feeder in the pool, and it will gradually dissolve and distribute the chlorine. If you have small children, be cautious about using a floating container, as it can be a safety hazard.

Step 5: Monitor and Adjust

After adding chlorine, continue to test the water regularly to ensure the levels remain within the desired range. If the chlorine levels are too high, you can use a chlorine neutralizer to bring them down. Conversely, if the levels drop too low, you may need to add more chlorine tablets or sticks. Remember to maintain other aspects of pool chemistry, such as pH and alkalinity levels, as they work together with chlorine to keep your pool safe and enjoyable.

Test the water

Testing your pool water is an essential part of pool maintenance. It helps to ensure the water is crystal clear and safe for swimming, and it also helps to maintain your pool, preventing damage and extending its life. Testing your pool water regularly will save you money in the long run, as it will avoid the need for costly repairs.

The ideal pH level for your pool is between 7.4 and 7.6. If your pH is above 7.6, you will need to add muriatic acid to bring it down. If it is below 7.4, you will need to add a soda ash product. You can buy pH testing kits or use test strips to check the levels. It is recommended to test your pool water at least once a week, and more often if the pool is in heavy use. You may want to test 2-3 times a week if you are new to pool maintenance, and it is a good idea to pick one day a week to routinely test the water.

In addition to pH, you should also test the chlorine and alkalinity levels. The ideal chlorine level is 1.0-3.0 ppm, and the ideal alkalinity level is 90 ppm or above. If these levels are too low, you will need to "shock" the water by adding a bucket of dissolved chlorine and/or alkalinity increaser. You can also add baking soda in a pinch.

If you are unsure about testing and treating your pool water, you can take a water sample to a local pool store, and they will be able to advise you on the correct chemicals to add.

Frequently asked questions