
Building concrete steps is a great way to improve the curb appeal of your home and create a sturdy transition between your patio door and the outdoors. While it may seem like a daunting task, with the right tools and guidance, even beginners can achieve long-lasting and aesthetically pleasing results. In this article, we will outline the step-by-step process for creating concrete steps, including important considerations such as measuring, mixing, and curing. We will also explore alternative materials like wood and brick, and provide tips for ensuring your project complies with local building codes. By the end, you should feel empowered to tackle this project and enhance the functionality and visual appeal of your outdoor space.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Materials | Concrete, wood, brick, stone |
Step Height | 7 inches is the standard step height |
Width | Wide enough to accommodate the patio door |
Foundation | Concrete or cinder blocks to prevent steps from sinking |
Planning | Spend 2-3 days planning, laying out, and pouring concrete steps |
Building Permit | Check with the local municipality if a building permit is required |
Tools | Breaker hammer, bolt cutters, angle grinder, hammer, cold chisel, concrete cut-off saw |
Surface Prep | Sweep, spray, degrease/detergent, rinse, saturate surface |
Binding | Concrete adhesives |
Evaporation Retardant | Use to slow down the curing process |
What You'll Learn
Measure the length of the patio door opening
To make concrete steps off a patio door, the first step is to measure the length of the entire patio door opening from one side to the other. This includes the width of both doors. This measurement will determine the width of the steps and ensure they are wide enough to accommodate the patio door, whether it is sliding or French.
After taking this measurement, the next step is to remove any lower patio door moulding that may be installed. This can be done using a crowbar and nail pry. For example, if there is a 2-inch by 8-inch board mounted under the edge of the patio door, this will need to be removed.
Once the patio door opening is clear, you can begin to prepare the area for attaching the stair stringers. If you are attaching the stairs to a concrete or brick wall, use masonry bits to drill anchor holes and attach them securely with anchor bolts. This will provide a strong and stable base for your concrete steps.
The number and size of the stair stringers will depend on the height and width of the patio door opening. Typically, you will need three stair stringers: two end stringers that run alongside the board, and a centre stringer that will have a notch cut in the centre to fit under the board. These can be attached using bracing and long deck screws or wood screws.
By following these steps and measurements, you can ensure that your concrete steps are properly aligned with the patio door opening and provide a sturdy and safe transition to the patio or outdoor area.
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Remove the lower patio door moulding
Removing the lower patio door moulding
Before you start building your concrete steps, you'll need to remove the lower patio door moulding, if there is one. Here's a step-by-step guide:
Step 1: Prepare your workspace
Clear the area around the door and make sure children and pets are kept at a safe distance. Lay down some foam sheets or blankets to protect your flooring from any potential damage. Gather your tools, including a crowbar and nail pry, and keep them within easy reach.
Step 2: Inspect the moulding
Take a close look at the moulding and identify any screws or nails holding it in place. Determine whether the moulding is attached to a concrete wall, brick, or wood. This will impact the tools and techniques you use for removal.
Step 3: Remove the moulding
If the moulding is attached to a concrete wall or brick, use a crowbar and nail pry to gently lift and detach the moulding from the wall. Be careful not to damage the wall or surrounding area. If the moulding is attached to wood, you may need to use a pry bar or flathead screwdriver to remove it gently.
Step 4: Clean the area
Once the moulding is removed, clean the area where the moulding was attached. This will ensure that your workspace is clear and ready for the next steps in building your concrete steps.
Step 5: Dispose of the moulding
Properly dispose of the removed moulding. If it is made of hard plastic, consider recycling it if your local waste management offers this service. Otherwise, wrap it securely and dispose of it according to your local guidelines.
Step 6: Inspect the door and frame
With the moulding removed, take a moment to inspect the door and frame. Look for any damage, wear, or tear that may need to be addressed before proceeding with your project. This is also a good opportunity to clean the door and frame, ensuring they are free of dirt and grime.
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Attach stair stringers to the wall
Attaching the stair stringers to the wall is a critical step in building concrete steps off a patio door. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to attach stair stringers to a wall:
Prepare the Wall
Before attaching the stair stringers, ensure the wall is properly prepared. If you are attaching the stringers to a concrete or brick wall, use masonry bits to drill anchor holes. This will provide a solid base for the stringers to attach to.
Reinforce the Rim:
Reinforce the rim or framing behind the stairs to provide a sturdy base for attachment. This will ensure that the weight of the stairs, as well as any additional loads, is adequately supported.
Use Stair Stringer Connectors:
Stair stringer connectors are essential for a secure attachment. Bend the connectors to the correct angle and hold them under the stringers. Mark the height of the connector and raise the stringer to match. Repeat this process for each stringer attachment.
Attach the Stringers:
Use 10d - 1.5" hot-dipped galvanized nails to nail the stair stringer connectors into place. Then, securely nail the stair stringers to the connector side flange and bottom. Ensure that the top of the stringers are level.
Adjust and Secure:
Temporarily attach all three stringers and check that they are correctly positioned. Level across the stringers, ensuring they are within 1/16 inch of each other. Adjust the middle stringer as needed until it is even with the outside stringers. If necessary, use shims to raise or lower stringers to achieve the correct height.
Secure to Landing:
To secure the stringers to the landing, use a kicker board. Fit the kicker board into the notches at the bottom of the stringer and check for level. Drill a hole through the kicker board and into the concrete pad, then fasten the kicker board with an appropriate masonry fastener. Secure the stringer bottom to the kicker board with toe screws, being careful not to split the stringer end.
By following these steps, you will ensure that your stair stringers are securely attached to the wall, providing a safe and sturdy base for your concrete steps off the patio door.
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Cut and install treads
The process of installing treads for your concrete steps will depend on the material you are using. For instance, if you are using wood, you will need to cut and install the treads differently than if you are using concrete or stone.
If you are using wood, you will first need to measure the width of your patio door and cut a 2-by-8 board to that width. This board will be attached to the wall just under the edge of the patio door using masonry bits and anchor bolts. Next, attach three stair stringers to the board. The two-end stringers will go alongside the board, while the centre stringer will have a notch cut into the centre to fit under the board. You can then cut and install the treads across the lengths of the stringers using outdoor, galvanized deck screws and a power driver.
If you are using concrete, you will need to follow a different process. First, make sure you have the required number of safety treads before pouring the concrete. Pour the concrete and schedule the pours to allow the safety treads to be installed quickly before the initial set occurs. Select a stair nosing and place it into the fresh concrete, ensuring that the front edge of the nosing is flush with the riser form. Gently work the nosing into the concrete until the back edge is level with the finished edge of the tread. Repeat this process until all the stair nosings are installed and properly positioned. After the concrete has taken its initial set, remove the riser forms and finish the concrete riser flush to the stair nosing.
If you are using stone, you can follow a similar process as for concrete, but you will need to use a stone-specific adhesive to attach the treads to the risers.
Regardless of the material you choose, it is important to ensure that your stairs are sound, clean, and level before installing the treads.
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Install risers
If you want to, you can install risers. Cut them to the length of the steps and mount them with galvanized deck screws.
Before you get started, watch out for wells. In the past, many stoops were built over well rooms. Don't begin the demolition process without first checking for this. You can identify steps built over wells by a glass access panel.
Also, always call the local municipality to find out if you need a building permit and inspection. If you don’t own a breaker hammer, rent one. Some old stoops were poured very thick and are hard to break up. Don’t order the concrete truck until you know what you’re dealing with.
Whether you are using a breaker hammer or a sledgehammer, try to locate the rebar (if there is any) and strike along its length. Sometimes, the concrete can be more easily broken apart if you follow the rebar. Cut through the rebar with bolt cutters or an angle grinder fitted with a cut-off wheel.
It’s okay if some of the old concrete sticks to the house, but it’s important to clean off the top area or it will show. Knock off the remnants with a hammer and cold chisel.
If you’re replacing an existing stoop, it’s likely that part of the sidewalk will need to be replaced too, even if it is in good shape. This is because the distance from the top of the new stoop down to the top of the sidewalk may not accommodate the height and width of each stair riser and tread as required by current building codes.
If part of the old sidewalk is going to stay, prevent a jagged intersection by cutting the sidewalk with a concrete cut-off saw.
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Frequently asked questions
Drive stakes to indicate where the base of the bottom step will be when poured. Compute the unit rise and run of the steps, and draw a dimensioned sketch.
First, divide the total rise by 7 inches, the standard step height. Round up fractional results to the nearest whole number. Then, divide the total rise by this number to get the unit rise.
Watch out for wells. Many stoops were constructed over well rooms. Always call the local municipality to find out if you need a building permit and inspection. If you don’t own a breaker hammer, rent one.