Securing Siding: A Guide To Protecting Your Home's Exterior

Securing siding to your house is a big project, but it can be done by people with basic carpentry skills. There are several types of siding, including vinyl, aluminum, and wood. Vinyl siding is the most popular exterior covering on residential houses in the US since the 1980s. It is durable, eliminates the need for maintenance, and does not need to be repainted.

Before installing siding, you must prepare the outside of your home by fixing any structural defects and removing any fixtures that may get in the way. You will also need to gather the right tools and materials, including a folding ruler, a metal square, a claw hammer, tin snips, and vinyl siding.

When installing vinyl siding, there are specific fitting and nailing rules to follow. For example, you must leave a gap between siding panels and accessories to allow for expansion. You should also refrain from driving nails too tightly, as this can restrict the movement of the panels and cause them to buckle.

Overall, securing siding to your house can be a DIY project, but it requires careful planning and preparation to ensure a successful installation.

Use caulk or screws for a quick fix

If you're looking for a quick fix to secure your siding, you can use caulk or screws. However, it's important to note that these are temporary solutions and may not be the best option for long-term durability. Here's what you need to know about using caulk or screws to secure your siding:

Using Caulk:

Caulk is a flexible acrylic sealant that can be used to fill gaps or cracks in your siding. It helps prevent water damage and moisture buildup, which are common issues with exterior siding. When using caulk, it's important to consider the type of siding you have and where to apply the caulk for the most effective results.

If you have wood siding, avoid using caulk over large areas as it will prevent the natural expansion and contraction of the wood. For fiber cement siding, caulking is generally not recommended unless there is no metal flashing underneath. At window trims, apply a "caulking dam" in the corners and caulk the sides and bottom to meet the siding.

When applying caulk, use small beads every 6 to 8 inches along the loose siding. Be careful not to use too much caulk to avoid squeezing it out onto the face of the siding. Have some mineral spirits handy to clean up any excess.

Using Screws:

Screws can be used as an alternative to nails when installing siding. However, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure the screws are not rusty, as this can cause unsightly streaks on your siding. Use Phillips head screws as they are the easiest to work with and compatible with a Phillips screwdriver.

When installing screws, avoid placing them in the middle of a piece of siding as it can compromise the appearance and functionality. Instead, attach the loose piece to the one beneath it through the drain holes. Use screws that are 3/4 or 1/2 an inch long, and place them every couple of feet. If aesthetics are important, try to find colour-matching screws at your local hardware store.

While caulk and screws can be quick fixes for loose siding, they may not provide the same level of durability as other methods, such as siding fasteners. For a more permanent solution, consider consulting a professional or using alternative methods specifically recommended for your type of siding.

Install corner posts

The corner posts should be cut to the length of the shed's corners, ensuring a 1/4" gap is left at the top of the posts. Place the nails at the top of the posts at the uppermost part of the slot to keep the post in place. All other nails should be nailed into the centre of the slots, maintaining an 8 to 12" distance between them. Before you begin nailing, extend a plumb line from the top of the corner to the bottom and strike a chalk line. Use this line as a guide to ensure the corner post is plumb during installation.

For corners that exceed the length of the corner post, you will need to use multiple pieces with a 1/4" overlap. Cut one inch off the nailing flange out to the corner's face. Install the lower post first, then slide the upper post over it, maintaining a 1/4" gap between the nailing flanges to allow for expansion.

The nails used should be aluminium or galvanised steel, with nail heads no smaller than 5/16" in diameter. Ensure the nails penetrate at least 3/4" into the wood framing of the shed for a secure attachment.

Planning and Preparation

Before installing the corner posts, it is essential to plan and prepare the shed properly. Determine the number of corner pieces required by measuring the linear footage of your shed. For a standard 10' x 14' shed, you will need four corner pieces, each measuring 8' in length.

Additional Tips

• It is recommended to wait for the corner posts to arrive before starting the siding installation. Installing the siding out of sequence can create short-term and long-term issues.
• Consider sourcing the corner pieces from another supplier if there is a long wait time for their delivery.
• If you decide to proceed without the corner posts, you can work on other tasks such as installing the J-channel on the windows, starter strips, and planning the siding pattern for longer walls.

Prepare the outside of your house

Before you begin, you must properly prepare the exterior of your house for the siding installation. One of the significant issues with vinyl siding is that it masks moisture problems and other structural defects. Therefore, it is crucial to fix any existing issues before installing the siding. Tighten any loose boards and replace any rotting ones. Scrape away any old caulk from around doors and windows.

Clear your work area by removing any fixtures such as exterior lights, downspouts, moulding, mailboxes, and house numbering. Also, tie back any plants, trees, or flowers from the exterior of the house to give yourself more room and prevent damage.

Remove any siding or exterior finish that is not compatible with vinyl siding, and ensure the walls are sheathed with a substrate to receive the siding. Common substrates are 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) plywood or OSB, usually covered with roofing felt or another moisture barrier before siding the walls.

The fitting and nailing rules are also important to understand. Vinyl siding expands and contracts with temperature changes, so it is vital to leave extra room for expansion to prevent the siding from buckling. Allow an extra 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) gap between siding panels and any accessories.

You should also refrain from driving nails too tightly, restricting the movement of the panels. Leave about 1⁄16 inch (0.2 cm) between the nail head and the siding to allow for movement and prevent waves from forming in the panels.

In addition, centre each nail in the appropriate slot, making sure to drive the nails in straight rather than crooked. Never face nail (drive nails through the panels) when installing siding, as this may cause the panels to buckle.

Understand fitting and nailing rules

When installing vinyl siding, there are several important fitting and nailing rules to follow. Vinyl siding expands and contracts with temperature changes, so it is crucial to leave an extra 1/4-inch gap between siding panels and accessories to prevent the siding from buckling. This gap allows for the expansion of vinyl siding in warm weather.

It is also important to refrain from driving nails too tightly, which can restrict the movement of the panels. Leave about 1/16-inch between the nail head and the siding to allow for movement and prevent waves from forming in the panels. Centre each nail in the appropriate slot, ensuring they are driven in straight rather than crooked. Never face nail (drive nails through the panels) when installing siding, as this may cause the panels to buckle.

When cutting vinyl siding, use a circular saw with a fine-tooth (plywood) blade installed backward for a smoother, cleaner cut, especially in cold weather. Cut slowly and only cut vinyl siding with this method – using a backward blade on other materials could be unsafe. For neater, cleaner cuts, avoid closing the blades completely at the end of a stroke when using tin snips. With a utility knife or scoring tool, score the vinyl face with medium pressure and snap it in half – it is not necessary to cut all the way through the vinyl.

Install J-channel around windows and doors

To install J-channel around windows and doors, you'll first need to install drip caps at the top of your windows and doors. Cut the bottom J-channel, allowing for the width of both side J-channels. Cut notches at the sides of the bottom J-channel to accept the two side J-channels. Cut mitered 45-degree angles at the bottoms of both side J-channels as well as both sides of the top piece to allow for proper drainage and to create a finished fit. Attach the two side pieces followed by the top piece.

J-channel is flexible to allow for its use around curved surfaces. Wider J-channels can also be used around window and door casings. It is used to cover and finish the ends of the vinyl siding, including around windows and doors.

You will need to measure the perimeter of each door and window to determine how much J-channel to purchase. J-channel comes in 12.5-foot lengths, so measure the height and width of each door and window, divide by 12, and round up.

For example, a 3x2-foot window would require one length of J-channel, while a 6x7-foot door opening would require two 12.5-foot lengths.

Frequently asked questions