Concrete Patio Makeover: Softening The Hard Edges

how to soften a concrete patio

Concrete patios are durable but can be unexciting. There are many ways to soften the harsh edges of a concrete patio and create a beautiful outdoor living space. One way is to paint the concrete slab, perhaps even scoring it with a circular saw first to create a pattern. Alternatively, you can lay decking over the concrete slab, or add borders and curves with the help of pavers. Concrete is a great base for tiles, so you could lay slate tiles to transform your concrete patio. You could also stain the concrete to look like tiles using tape to create grout lines. Another simple way to soften a concrete patio is to invest in a large outdoor rug.

Characteristics Values
Cleaning Power washing the concrete patio to remove old paint
Filling Filling cracks with an epoxy filler
Priming Using a primer to prepare the concrete for the next steps
Coating Applying a stone coating to the concrete patio
Sealing Sealing the stone coating with a sealer/top coat
Decorating Adding rugs, plants, or furniture to enhance the space

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Paint the concrete slab

Painting a concrete patio slab is a great way to soften the look of your outdoor space. It's a simple and cost-effective method that can transform the aesthetic of your patio. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you achieve the best results:

Preparation:

First, ensure your concrete slab is completely dry. Concrete typically takes about 28 days to cure, but it will need more time to fully dry—usually at least seven weeks. To test if your concrete is dry, use a simple DIY method: cut a 10 x 10 cm square of damp-proofing membrane, stick it to the slab with duct tape, ensuring the edges are sealed, and wait for 48 hours. If condensation develops, the slab is not ready for painting.

Cleaning:

Once your slab is dry, you may need to remove any residue or grease. You can use a watered-down acid etch, following the manufacturer's instructions and wearing the necessary protective gear. This step will ensure your slab is clean and ready for painting.

Painting:

When the slab is completely dry, it's time to start painting. Ensure the surface is clean and dust-free and ready for the paint. Use a concrete floor paint that is specifically designed for this purpose. You can use a paintbrush or a roller for application, depending on the texture of your slab. A rougher surface may require more paint, so be prepared to have enough paint for at least two coats.

Sealing:

After the first coat of paint is completely dry (usually overnight), apply a second coat to ensure the slab is properly sealed and covered. This will help protect your paint job and ensure its longevity.

Maintenance:

With proper preparation and painting, your painted concrete patio slab should last for a long time. However, it is important to maintain it by regularly cleaning and sealing the surface to prevent wear and tear and to keep it looking its best.

Remember, when working with any chemicals, always follow the manufacturer's instructions and take the necessary safety precautions, including wearing protective gear.

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Lay decking flooring

Laying decking flooring is a great way to cover up a badly damaged concrete patio without having to go through the costly and laborious process of removing the concrete. This method can be used even if your patio is in terrible shape, with cracks, craters and seasonal movement along cracks. However, if your patio has areas that are badly cracked and sink noticeably year after year, it is best to delay the project until the settling concrete stops sinking.

This project will raise the level of your patio by 2.5 to 3.5 inches, so any door thresholds adjoining the patio must be at least that far above the concrete. If you live in a cold climate, allow an extra 0.5 inches for seasonal "frost heave".

Step-by-Step Guide to Lay Decking Flooring:

Determine the Deck Layout:

Mark the layout of the first sleeper on the concrete, starting 0.5 inches from the house's foundation or concrete edge. Use standard joist spacing of 16 inches on the centre until reaching the end of the patio. Repeat this process on the left and right sides of the patio, 1 foot from the edge. Then, measure and mark 1.5 inches to the right of the marks you just made. Use a level or straightedge to draw a line connecting these three new parallel marks. Each sleeper edge will be positioned next to these lines.

Cut and Install Spacers (Optional):

You can lay the sleepers directly on the concrete, but it is recommended to use spacers to let you run sleepers parallel to the house, so decking can run perpendicular. Spacers also allow sleepers to dry, preventing rot. Cut a 0.5-inch thick PVC trim board into 3.5-inch strips and then into 2-inch sections to create your spacers.

Position the Sleepers:

The sleepers don't have to be level, but they should form a flat plane. If your patio is uneven, you will need to spend time shimming under the sleepers to create a flat surface for the decking. Lay a straight board across the patio and look for the highest hump, planning to position your first sleeper there. Space the spacers every 18 inches along the sleeper edge line. Lay the sleeper board onto the spacers or directly onto the concrete. Work outward from the high spot, checking for flatness with a 4-foot level. Add plastic shims to raise low spots.

Predrill for Concrete Screws:

All surfaces must be pre-drilled before securing with concrete screws. Position a 3/16-inch masonry drill bit over the centre of a sleeper and spacer. Drill through the sleepers, spacers and into the concrete with a hammer drill. Drill the holes slightly deeper than the screw will reach to provide space for dust and grit, making the screws easier to drive.

Secure Sleepers to Concrete:

Use a drill with a driver bit to drive in concrete screws. Overhang the sleepers along one edge of the patio and trim them to the exact length later. Use 3.25-inch screws so they penetrate the concrete by at least one inch. In low spots, use longer screws (3.75 inches) and stack up shims.

Set Sleepers in Plane:

Double-check that all the sleepers are flat after they have been screwed down. Set a 4-foot level on each sleeper, both across and along it. If you find spots that are 1/16 inch or more out-of-plane, adjust the shims and screws.

Install Flashing on Sleepers:

Before decking, cover the sleepers with flashing tape to prevent water from soaking into the wood and causing rot. Cut the tape to length with scissors or a utility knife and adhere it firmly to the surface.

Install Decking Boards:

Lay the deck boards in place across the sleepers, making adjustments or cutting end boards as necessary. Use deck screws to fasten the deck boards to the sleepers with a drill and driver bit. Secure each board with two screws at each sleeper.

Install a Fascia Board:

To cover the ends of the sleepers, cut strips of 0.5-inch-thick PVC and screw them to the sleepers. Measure the space between the bottom of the decking and the concrete, and rip the PVC board to width.

Pros and Cons of Laying Decking Flooring:

Pros:

  • Eliminates the cost and labour of removing concrete.
  • Looks like a deck but is easier and less expensive to build.
  • Usually less expensive than a new patio installed by a contractor.
  • Doesn't require disposing of large amounts of concrete.

Cons:

  • The added height can be challenging, especially if the patio comes straight off the house.
  • Requires clearing thresholds and doorways, and seamless connections to pathways and stairs.
  • Requires correction of any existing water problems, such as improper pitching of the concrete.
  • May require professional help if you are unsure about your concrete patio's suitability or are uncomfortable with the skill level required.

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Add curves with pavers

Adding curves to your concrete patio with pavers is a great way to create a unique and elegant outdoor space. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you achieve this look:

Planning and Preparation:

Start by deciding on the desired curve tightness, such as a radius of 3 feet or 36 inches. Measure from the corner of your patio and mark each side accordingly. To ensure a gradual and consistent curve, use a ½” PVC conduit to connect the marks and create a smooth curve. You can also use a garden hose to mark the curves if you prefer.

Gathering the Right Tools and Materials:

For this project, you'll need a paver marker, such as a felt marker, carpenter's pencil, or crayon. The ½” PVC conduit will help you mark the curve. A tape measure is essential for precision, especially if you're aiming for a specific radius. You'll also need a saw or paver splitter for cutting the pavers. If you plan to reuse old pavers or purchase new ones, ensure you have a variety of sizes and shapes to work with.

Cutting the Pavers:

Once you've marked the curve, it's time to cut the pavers. For outside curves, simply connect the dots by marking the curve and then cut the pavers along this line. Inside curves are a bit more challenging due to the tighter radius. Measure 36 inches from the corner on both sides and make your marks. Use the PVC conduit to connect these marks, bending it in a U-shape. Mark and cut along this line for a gradual inside curve.

Installing the Pavers:

When cutting pavers for a vehicular application or to create a robust edge, consider adding a border stone to retain the smaller, cut pieces. You can use a soldier or sailor border with a rectangle or square paver, but be aware that tight radii may result in gaps between the stones. If needed, bevel the stones before installing the edge restraint.

Finalizing the Design:

After cutting and installing the curved pavers, it's time to fill in the gaps and set the pavers in place. Use polymeric sand, sweeping it into the gaps between the pavers from different angles to ensure even coverage. Remove any excess sand from the paver faces using a leaf blower or an angle broom. Finally, lightly mist the polymeric sand with water, being careful not to use too much water, and let it dry for 24 hours before using your new curved patio.

By following these steps, you can easily add curves to your concrete patio, creating a beautiful and elegant outdoor space to enjoy.

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Lay slate tiles

Laying slate tiles over a concrete patio is a great way to create a natural, rustic aesthetic. Before you begin, ensure that your concrete patio is in good shape. Check for any cracks or damage and fill small cracks with a concrete repair compound. For larger cracks, you may need to seek professional help. Make sure the surface is clean and level. If there are any dips or rises, use a self-levelling compound or consider getting it professionally levelled.

Now, you can start laying your slate tiles. First, plan out how your tiles will be laid out. Consider the dimensions of your patio and the size of your tiles. Take measurements to ensure you have enough tiles to cover the area. Don't forget to account for the grout lines, which typically take up about 10% of the overall floor space. Start from the centre of your patio and plan your way out to the edges.

Next, apply a layer of thinset, a cement-based mortar that's perfect for securing tiles to concrete. Mix your thinset and work in small batches of about 2x2 feet at a time. Using a notched trowel, spread the thinset over a small area of the slab. The size of the notches should correspond to the size of the tiles, with larger tiles requiring larger notches.

Place your slate tiles into the thinset, pressing down firmly to ensure they stick. Make sure each tile is level with the adjacent ones and use tile spacers to maintain even gaps between the tiles. If you need to cut any tiles to fit at the edges or around obstacles, use a tile saw, always wearing the appropriate safety gear.

Once you've laid all the tiles, you'll need to seal them before grouting. After the grout has completely dried (usually within 24 hours), apply a grout sealer to protect the grout from moisture, dirt, and wear. For outdoor tiles, you may also want to apply an exterior tile sealer for added protection against the elements.

Finally, it's time to grout your tiles. Remove the tile spacers and use a utility knife or trowel to clean out any excess mortar or debris from the joints. Prepare the grout mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions, ensuring it complements your slate tiles. Use a grout float to apply the grout into the joints, pressing firmly to ensure proper filling and bonding. Wipe off any excess grout from the tile surfaces with a damp sponge before it dries.

And that's it! You've now laid slate tiles over your concrete patio, creating a beautiful and durable outdoor space. Remember to keep your patio clean and reapply sealant as necessary to maintain its appearance.

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Stain the concrete to look like tile

Staining your concrete patio to look like tile is a great way to give your outdoor space a fresh, new look. Here's a step-by-step guide to achieving this stylish update:

Choose the Right Stain

Before you begin, it's important to select the right concrete stain for your project. There are two types of stains commonly used: water-based and acid-based. Water-based stains are easier to apply, come in a variety of colours, and form a coating on the concrete surface. Acid-based stains, on the other hand, chemically react with the concrete to create a permanent bond and a natural-looking finish. They are more challenging to use but offer superior durability and fade resistance.

Prepare the Concrete Surface

Start by ensuring your concrete patio is at least four weeks old. This allows the concrete enough time to cure properly. Thoroughly clean the area by sweeping, mopping, and removing any dust, dirt, or debris. If there are stubborn marks or discolouration, consider using a pressure washer. Repair any cracks in the concrete using a concrete crack sealant and let it dry for at least 24 hours. Then, use a floor scrubber to smooth out any uneven patches.

Tape Out Your Tile Design

Now, it's time to get creative! Use painter's tape to mark out your desired tile pattern. You can create squares, rectangles, or any shape you like to mimic the look of tiles. This process will take time and patience, but it will be worth it!

Apply the Stain

For smaller areas or tight corners, use a paint roller or handheld brush to apply the stain. If you're staining a large area, an acid-resistant airless paint sprayer will make the job quicker and easier. Work in sections, using overlapping spray patterns to maintain a wet edge. Allow the stain to react with the concrete for at least 6 hours. Then, clean any residue with a degreaser and neutralizer solution, and rinse with clean water. Repeat the rinsing process until no residue remains.

Seal the Concrete

Once the concrete is completely dry, apply a concrete sealer to protect the stained surface. Choose a sealer that enhances the colour depth and provides a durable finish. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for application, and allow the sealer to dry completely before using your patio again.

Maintain Your Stained Concrete Patio

With proper care, your stained concrete patio can last for up to 10 years or more. To maintain its beauty, regularly clean the surface with mild detergent and water. Reapply the sealer as needed to protect against wear and tear. Enjoy your stylish and unique outdoor space!

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